Papillon and Phalene Care

Feeding the Papillon A great deal of time, trial and error, effort and research has been placed in determining what our fur kids should be eating. Of utmost concern is the fact that we want to ensure they are getting the proper nutrients and minerals necessary to promote good health. All dogs need amino acids that are found in protein to encourage normal growth and healthy immune systems. A dog’s system will convert protein into calories that will be used for energy and stored as fat. There are a number of amino acids that our papillons and phalenes produce on their own, but it is the remaining ones that we must supply to them. These include valine, arginine, tryptophan, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, threonine and phenylalanine. Amino acids can be found in numerous sources such as eggs, beef, fish meal, milk, soybeans, etc. With that being said, not all proteins are created equal in that the ability to break the proteins down into amino acids varies. Most commercial dog food manufactures use various ingredients (e.g., beef, chicken, lamb, fish, egg, etc.) to obtain the needed protein requirements. Of these, eggs contain the highest and most digestable proteins. My personal preference is to feed puppies and dogs a high quality protein level of at least 28% to 38% to ensure normal development. It has been noted that a dog does not need a high protein food and that feeding more than 10 - 12% protein can cause potential damage, but studies have found that this is not the case. Please refer to this website for one of the said studies: http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/best-dog-foods/low-protein-dog-foods/. After looking at and trying several high to moderate priced wet dog foods, I was surprised after reading the labels. The ones I looked at contained levels of only 9% to 10%. Figuring something was wrong, I conducted more research. I found out that in order to determine an accurate protein rating on most wet foods; you must do some math to get the true protein level. Here’s what Holly Nash, DVM, MS said at http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls= 2&cat=1661&articleid=662: The levels of nutrients on dog food labels “… are expressed on a 'dry matter' (DM) basis. On most pet food labels, the levels listed in the guaranteed analysis are expressed on an 'as fed' basis. To convert 'as fed' to 'dry matter' a simple conversion is necessary. If a dry food has 10% moisture we know that it has 90% dry matter. So we look at the label and check the protein level. That reads 20%. Next, we divide the 20 percent protein by the 90% dry matter and we get 22%, which is the amount of protein on a dry matter basis." Premised on this information, our dogs are rotated a feed of Taste of The Wild and EVO canned foods. I have recently introduced Wellness canned food and am pleased with it as well. Time will tell how it maintains the dogs, but feeding a rotation of the three canned foods thus far has proven to be benefical in their overall body functions (e.g., stool formation). I also feed high quality dry kibbles (we rotate between EVO small bites, Wellness for Small Breeds, Ziwipeak, and Orijen which balance out the overall protein intake. I supplement these foods with raw and cooked meats, eggs and raw vegetables (frozen green beans seem to be a favorite). So far, I am pleased with the results I am seeing with the dogs. Their coats are shiny, their energy levels are good, and their development and bone structure are excellent. Their vet seems pleased with their overall health (other than a couple being a touch over weight because of their love of “goodies”). We have had no allergic reactions (e.g., itchy skin, hot spots, etc.) from these foods as they contain no corn, wheat, soy, grain fractions or fillers. We feed our puppies wet food 4 times daily and they have dry kibble and fresh water available at all times. Our adults are fed wet food twice a day and again have fresh water and dry kibble at all times. Of major concern is ensuring a pap's stool is neither too soft or too hard. Some foods can interact with a dog's system, not unlike some food will do to us humans. A natural solution to loose stools is first, ensure your pup has not picked up internal parasites. Stool samples should be taken to the vet on a regular basis if your dog is experiencing loose stools. Some internal parasites will not show up on just one fecal check. Once parasites are ruled out, a natural stool hardner that is a favorite around here is raw sweet potato pieces. These are diced up french fry style and feed to the dogs. Normally, three to four "fries" feed every day will help firm the dog's stool up. For stools that are to hard (e.g., a dog strains to go bathroom), fresh frozen green beans will add the needed fiber for a dog's needs. Exercise and Living Quarters As with any living thing, a papillon needs adequate exercise. For the most part, they are content to lay on your lap or at your feet, but, at certain times of the day, the pap will get the "zoomies." This equates to them wanting to get up and run around in a somewhat aimless fashion. Of course, they know what they are running to or from, but it is not always as obvious to their owners. In my opinion, this is what is so delightful about their personalities. Perhaps this zooming steams from their originating ancestor, the phalene (in the 1500's, the phalene was the smallest member of the spaniel group of dogs (a.k.a. Continental Toy Spaniel, Dwarf Spaniel). As a general statement, the spaniel's personality permits them to be equally comfortable in your lap or out in the field chasing game. To accommodate the need of exercise, our dogs are never crated at home. They have free access to various portions of our house 24/7. They are taken outside several times a day, where they chase sticks, balls, bugs, birds or just each other. Although paps do enjoy the great outdoors from time to time, they ARE NOT outdoor dogs. No papillon should be housed outside. We have bred them to be small companion dogs and as such, their bodies are not designed to tolerate the heat or the cold for extended periods of time. Papillon Teeth For a papillon to have a correct bite, it should have a scissor bite. In other words, the front top teeth should lay directly over/in front of the lower teeth. If a papillon has too much space (i.e., the front top teeth and bottom teeth have a space between them when together, the pap is said to be overshot or undershot, depending on whether the upper or lower teeth are misaligned. This is a fault in the conformation ring. Retained Teeth A pup needs to be carefully monitored by a vet and its owner to ensure there are no retained baby teeth. Retained baby teeth can hinder the correct development of the papillon's "bite." Most pap pups drop their baby teeth by the age of 6 months. It is recommended that pups be carefully examined by a vet around that age to ensure proper teeth development. Adult papillons should have their teeth checked by their vet once a year. If need be, a dental should be performed to prevent excessive tartar buildup. Various chews toys (e.g., bully sticks) can help in the tartar buildup issue, as well as brushing the pap's teeth on a routine basis. There are several products on the market that aid in preventing tartar buildup, one being PetzLife Oral Care Spray and Gel. I have found this to be an excellent product, coupled with brushings and vet cleanings. New Puppy Instructions You've got your new puppy; NOW WHAT? I have put together a list of our our recommendations. Feeding your puppy properly is very important, the following foods and feeding routines are what we recommend for your new papillon or phalene. Feeding: Until the pup reaches the age of at least six months, feed as follows: 1. Puppy Food - Dry We feed a rotation/mixture of Evo Red Meat Small Bites, Wellness and Orijen Dry food. In our opinion, these are THE BEST dry foods available for a toy dog. They contain a proper amount of protein when feed in combination with the below mentioned canned foods. In addition, they do not contain the grain content which other foods do. Certain grains are used as fillers in other foods and have been linked to serious skin and internal organ disorders. Not changing his diet at this young age is very important and if not followed, could result in health problems. Also, most foods that can be purchsed from a grocery store contain too much grain for a papillon, or any dog for that matter. High quality foods that are grain free have proven to be the best diet for our dogs. This is very important . . . 2. Always leave a bowl of dry food out for your pup to eat; she/he will not over eat but will only eat when hungry. 3. Puppy Food - Canned We also give our pups a rotation of EVO, Wellness and Taste of the Wild meat canned foods. For pups between 3 months and 4 months of age, we recommend feeding 3 to 4 servings a day. For older pups and adults, we feed canned food 2 times a day. 4. Always leave a bowl of fresh water at his disposal. 5. We supplement both our pups and adults with Ricotta cheese (roughly a tablespoon fed daily). This provides additional calcium that they need to promote good dental health and bone development. 6. As treats (a.k.a. goodies), we give our dogs frozen green beans, cheese, liver, sweet potatoes and chicken hot dogs (sliced). 7. For the first week upon your new puppy's arrival, we recommend giving a few (2 to 4) drops of honey mixed in with the pup's canned food once a day. This is important to ward off hypoglycemia. DO NOT overdo the dosage as it can send a pup into hyperglycemia. Both conditions can kill a pup. Sleeping Quarters: Papillons are toy dogs, bred to be lap dogs. They are bred to be human companions 24/7. Yes, I sleep with several of my dogs in my bed. However, we understand that not everyone can do this. The pups that leave Le Tra are used to sleeping with their litter mates in warm cozy beds in a climate controlled room (normally my kitchen). They are not used to being left alone (without some type of companion) at night so if possible, having a small crate set up in your bedroom is the next best thing to having them with you in your bed. It is recommended that they ONLY be kept in their crate for no longer than necessary. Young pups can only hold it for so long, about one hour for each month in age. Training: Take your puppy to an obedience class, it only takes about one hour per week and you will not believe the rewards received by you both. Vaccinations: PLEASE take your pup to the vet within 10 days of taking her/him home. They have received their age appropriate shots, however, your region may require additional vaccinations. Follow your vet's recommendations for annual boosters. Of utmost importance is to insist your dog NOT receive a Rabies vaccination with his other vaccines. There should be at least a three week waiting period between them. SEVERE FATAL reactions are being seen in toys that receive all vaccines at one time. Fleas: We also advise that you put your puppy on a good flea program recommended by your Veterinarian. Also, it is a very good idea to spray or dust your yard for fleas in early spring and mid August. Internal Parasites: Have your puppy checked for parasites as often as recommended by your veterinarian. In addition, have your vet recommend a good heart worm pill. This will require your vet to pull some blood work, but the extra expense is well worth having a heart worm free happy puppy. Heart worms can and often do, kill dogs. Neuter or Spay (Alter): Unless your pup has been sold as having show potential, she/he must be altered at APPROXIMATELY six months of age. Follow your veterinarian's advice on what age is best for your particular pup. Weight and size do factor into this decision. Potty Training: Your puppy has been trained to use litter pans filled with pine pellets and weather permitting, the great outdoors. If it is your intention to outdoor potty your pup, it is vital that your puppy be taken out on a routine schedule, approximately every 2 to 3 hours. You can associate a word with doing her or his business and give praise (e.g., a goodie) when success happens.